I also really need pro photography of this cosplay once it’s finished hh


Photographer: ACCosplay www.facebook.com/accosplaytx

Gijinka Umbreon cosplayed by me: www.facebook.com/corsetscarscosplay


Princess Tutu Photoshoot Preview / Katsucon ‘14

{ Ahiru  - Rue - Photographer }


So you wanna be an animal..or partially an animal..fine, you just want ears because they’re super cute and you’re over the faun thing. I’ve got your back. Of course, there are tons of different ears out there and there are simpler ways to do this, but…let’s take our ears up to 11. Or 7.

What you need:

  • fabric for the interior and exterior of your ears (this can vary depending on what you want but I used faux fur and felt)
  • plastic canvas
  • armature wire
  • sewing machine, thread, needles, scissors

First! Figure out the shape of your animal’s ears. Remember, ears aren’t flat (usually). They’re fully three-dimensional body parts. Play around with some paper first and figure out what you want them to look like.

I chose rabbit ears. I could do this more easily by flattening them but I wanted them more realistic. I cut out the pieces.image

I cut out 2 pieces for the interior of the ear of felt, 2 for the exterior of faux fur, and I also cut out 2 pattern pieces out of plastic canvas. The plastic canvas…let’s talk about that for a sec. Plastic canvas is that stuff that old ladies make tissue box covers out of or book marks. Not insulting them, we’re just using it for a different purpose. Try to buy the plastic canvas with the finest or smallest grid possible. We’ll be using this on the inside of the ears as a support for the ear, the “cartilage” if you will. Just trust me on this.

imageSew your ear fabrics together, right sides in. Flip them right-sides out. They’re pretty cute just like that! But…let’s push ourselves further.


Look at my nail polish! I’m in love with it. But back to business. Now here is where the whole process sloooooowwwwssss way down. You want to stitch your armature wire to the plastic canvas. Leave at least 4 inches of wire on both ends of the plastic canvas. But why are we wasting our time with this? It makes perfect sense! I promise. Basically, what I’m trying to do here is eliminate a need for extra stitching on the outside of the ear once it’s finished and allow the wire to move the entire ear with the plastic canvas support like a real ear would move. You’ll also be able to position and reposition this all you want.


Stick the whole plastic canvas/wire thingy inside the pocket of your ears. Whoa! You’ve got ears! I left a few inches of wire on both ends of the plastic canvas. This is important because you can then either wrap the wire around a headband and plop it on your head OR you can stick the wires through a wig and onto a headband for support and an invisible way to attach it. You could also sew it directly onto a wig. My ears are too tall for this and need the extra support of a headband under my wig, but whatever you choose to do is all personal preference.

You should totally add a flower crown because that will be all like woodland creature royalty stuff. Just saying.

Nerd Girl Cosplay - www.facebook.com/nerdgirlcosplay

pomp-a-romp: Do you have any advice on working with pleather?



Pleather is different to work with than any other fabric, and it requires occasionally using certain techniques than what you’re used to.

For one, it often sticks to the machine if you try to topstitch it. This is not good. Ways around that are a dual feed dog (only found on more expensive machines), a teflon presser foot, or this method from hezachan (which can double for letting you add on a topstitching guide).

When you put a hole in vinyl or pleather, that hole is there forever. There is no undoing it. Pick out a seam? That seam’s holes are there permanently. So if you’re sewing something out of vinyl, you NEED to make a mockup first. There is no way around this unless you’re recycling a pattern you’ve used before. If you have to pin things, pin only INSIDE the seam allowance. I’ve also found that in some cases, masking tape (off the edge of where you’ll be sewing so you aren’t sewing through tape) can be used to hold things in place.

Pressing seams on vinyl is an ADVENTURE because it doesn’t like heat. You CAN do this of course; it just takes a lot of careful testing on scraps, and requires the use of a presser cloth. It’s normally more effective in many cases to topstitch everything that might otherwise require pressing; fake flatfelled seams (where you push the seam allowance to one side and then topstitch the resulting three layers in place) or pushing the seam allowance one part to each side and topstitching on each side are both methods you’ll wind up using a lot.

However, one of the advantages of pleather/vinyl: It doesn’t fray. Ever. You can even occasionally sneak raw edges into the designs this way.

Working with pleather/vinyl is unlike sewing anything else except actual leather (and even then it’s slightly different), so I hope this advice helped, and be ready to test stuff on scraps and have fun!

OH. AND NEVER USE JOANN COSTUME VINYL (THE SHINY STUFF). EVER. One of my favorite costumes that I’ve ever made used lavender JoAnn vinyl for the base of the pants. After several years, the vinyl is cracking and peeling from the backing around the crotch seam, rendering them unwearable. I’m going to have to remake the pants if I ever want to wear them again. Don’t use really cheap shitty vinyl or your hard work will also be destroyed after not all that many wears.

blueroseangelshaven: Hello, I was wondering if I could ask you an question. If you have time to spare. I was wondering how you made your Cosmo puppet, and how you are currently making your other sonic puppets. How did you learn??. Is there any tutorials you could point me towards?


There is some progress photos in my "cosplay progress" tag to help give you a better visualization of what I type down below. So, here’s the very basic idea on how I made Cosmo and the others, at least when it came to the bodies.

Basically I started out by making simple wire “skeletons” for both the body and the hands. It’s kind of like how they make wire armatures for stop motion puppets, but scaled up a whole bunch in this case. http://youtu.be/uimF41CrMXM http://youtu.be/LcTJ314zliA I used a more stronger clothes hanger wire, and I “braided” three wires together each time. I made two seperate halves for each plush/puppet, them being the “leg” and “spine”. I then attached the two halves together by the spine.

After I made the wire “skeletons” and got them attached to their foot boards(I used peg board for that), I then carved their midsections out of foam and then cut them in half to glue back together once I got the skeletons in place between the two halves. I did the foam(and wire) work for the hands from using this tutorial. https://www.projectpuppet.com/servlet/Page?template=arm-rods-tutorial Though in this case I used alluminiun floral wire for the fingers.(it’s thicker and comes in pretty colors like red, blue, and purple. You can find it in the floral section at Wal-Mart, or at dollar stores like Dollar Tree) The foamwork for the legs and arms were very basic to do, where all I did was just cut out a sheet of foam in the length and girth needed, and then folded them around the wires for their legs and arms, and then folded the seams in and hot glued them closed.

There’s allot more details I missed and way more steps, but this was just to give you a basic idea of how I made Cosmo and the other characters. At least when it comes to their bodies, the heads were just as exhausting and time consuming to make as the bodies. If you want to know how I did any other more specific parts, or what I used, then go right ahead and continue to ask away. C:

Hello, I saw you accepted submission, I love following your blog, and I really wanted to contribute, this is my Dr. Franken Stein cosplay I did at my first Japanese convention in Odaiba. My photographer was my friend Amber who does not have a tumblr unfortunately.

But something of note, my screw actually turns and makes the cranking sound when I turn it. Everything is hand made.

I hope you accept this, I love your blog and it has been a huge help to me in the past.

That’s so fun that you got to go to cons in Japan! I wish I could see a video of your screw because that sounds SO cool. You look really great! Thank you so much for the submission! :) 


"For those of you who have long, thick and volumous hair and try for hours to fit into a wig, this is a good method to prevent all those hours!"

Extending a styrofoam head


  • Duct tape
  • Dracalon

As simple as rolling some dracalon from back to the front of the styrofoam head and using the duct to clode the this filling.

Exteding a wig


  • Two wigs
  • Thread line and a needle

Reserve one of the two wigs to undo the seams and release the extensions, elastics and so on (first and second pictures)

With your second wig, undo the bottom/back lines. Cut the elastics (if needed) and sew together the new ones you got from the first wig. This way, the finally wig will be bigger and specially, larger.

Has you will notice, by extending the wig you’ll have a large space without any wig fiber. This is where the extentions from the previous wig will come in handy.

By simply grabbing a needle and a thread, sew the to the elastic but be sure that they have the perfect measure.

If you having trouble with the last step, grab a styrofoam head (be sure that this head has your head+hair measures. If it doesn’t, follow the tutorial Extending a styrofoam head up in this post).

With patience and love, you’ll have your final result: a wig that actually fits your head!

Thank you so much for reading it, please reblog this if you think it’s an actual problem for a lot of people <3

All photos in my instragram account

The propous for this wig will be for my Ragyo cosplay, a character from the anime series Kill la Kill.

More prograss soon!