Okay so I broke this down into three parts
I used a string of beads from Walmart with big purple rectangles on them. then went over to the local bead store and found those lovely danglely bits. the spacers were the larger of these:
the chain to connect it all was a small metal one.
As you can see I spray painted everything on the headdress with this spray paint. I only used about half a can. I connected the headdress with a magnetic clasp then super glued the danglely bits to the—former—purple rectangles. Lastly, I glued these red ovals to the dangles. I found them on Amazon from the seller below. Your headdress is now complete!
I used the small blue moon beads from the first picture, spacers and medallion are from the local bead store, and the same small chain I used in the headdress.
**the beads circled below are the bigger of the two Blue Moon beads.
I connected the whole thing to a ring I got at Michael’s
As you can tell everything was again spray painted, then a red rhinestone was glued to the center of the medallion.
Okay so full disclosure—I don’t really understand what I did. I have a general understanding, but not a full one.
***Please note: if you don’t have a mannequin this will have to be done with you wearing the dress and roughly took me six hours. ***
First you want to get your clear thread, magnetic clasps (2), and needle together. Then you want to make two separate—almost choker—necklaces. One should fall where a necklace usually does, the other a bit above. I used a handful of different beads I picked up at craft stores.
I then cut a long strand of thread and put about four beads between the two necklaces. connecting the thread and necklaces. Then I completed the vertical strand and finished it off after reaching the end of the neck line. Sew these into the dress. I did this five times. Then I made strands to go horizontally. Sewing them in as i went.
I didn’t take any pictures of this so, if you have any questions feel free to ask me!
I wrote a little guide for the three most prominent types of paint for all cosplayers to check out! It’s rather basic but because people seem confused about each paint type’s behavior, I wanted to write something based on my personal experiences. Painting isn’t just slathering on some color, it also requires a tiny bit of consideration on what to use on which occasions.
super Sansa fabric stamping/print post!
I’ve gotten a LOT of requests as to how I hand printed my Sansa Stark fabric from Game of Thrones, and I have some photos and walkthrough to show how!
THINGS YOU WILL NEED:
-an embroidery hoop (big enough to hold your design)
-organza (to put between the embroidery hoops)
-little sponges! (the kind with the wooden or plastic end you can find at craft stores)
-fabric paint in the color you would like to print your design
-fine tipped sharpie or pencils (to draw your design with)
-little paint brushes (to outline your design with properly)
- a water source
OKAY SO NOW THAT YOU HAVE YOUR ITEMS:
Put your organza in your embroidery hoop. get that sucker taut. tighten the heck out of it.
After it is in between the hoops and nice and snug, trace your design onto the organza!
ONCE you have your design drawn on the organza and traced, you are ready for your next step!
Your next step is to grab out your thin paint brushes and mod podge, and start to outline your design on the organza. ANYWHERE YOU DO NOT WANT PAINT TO GO ON YOUR FABRIC, PUT MOD PODGE. So, in the design pictured, pretty much anywhere I don’t want the design gets mod podged. NOTE: I also make sure that I mod podge AROUND THE DESIGN pretty hardcore because I end up getting really into it and mess up and accidentally get paint outside of the lines. so it’s kinda a safeguard.
Now that your design is mod podged on there, LET IT DRY. It won’t take too long, but this is where you reward yourself for all your hard work so far. Get a cookie, cry a little, drink some wine. (If you’re doing several designs, I suggest getting several embroidery hoops- for Sansa’s Blackwater dress, she has 2 designs and I used 2 hoops to make my life easier when printing)
ONCE IT DRIES, it’s time to get your sponges and fabric paint and fabric!
Mix that paint up, I put mine on my favorite “PAINT PLATE”- a ceramic plate that shows the war gashes of ALL OF THE PAINT I’ve ever painted with (it’s all dry, I’m lazy, long story).
Place the embroidery hoop where you want the design to appear on the fabric, and dip your sponge in paint and gently sponge the paint through the organza.
If you’re doing something with a repeating pattern and several designs, I suggest doing a row/column/section of ONE design at a time, like 5 fleur de lis in a row etc.
In between each design that you stamp, I HIGHLY SUGGEST RINSING YOUR ORGANZA AND LETTING IT DRY WHILE YOU WORK ON THE NEXT DESIGN. When I made my Sansa gown, I did NOT rinse it until way later and the paint dried and messed up my design in places (I procrastinate so of course I did not have time to fix my errors D:)
note, it WILL get tedious, and you will hate your life if you’re printing yards upon yards of fabric- I hand stamped about 7-8 yards and I wanted to cry for years.
Depending on the fabric you are using, I highly recommend to allot yourself enough fabric to line your sleeves if they will show, because the thinner the fabric the more you will be able to see the paint through the other side. (I know you are all going DUH right now, but it’s an innocent fact!)
After a while you will have fabric that is all stamped and wonderous and ready to be sewn (Once it dries, of course!)
Let your fabric dry over night at LEAST (If you have to sew it faster, you CAN blow dry it to get it to dry, or hang it outside if it’s warm weather/seasonal etc!)
and that’s about it! go sew your outfits or dresses or make cute tshirts or whatever!
my dress didn’t turn out PERFECTLY because I had major malfunctions with the amount of fabric I screen printed in time for the convention I made the dress, but I still love it. If you want perfect results, don’t procrastinate like I do, and start plenty of time early or you will be frustrated and I want you all to have pretty beautiful cosplays!
Cosplayer - me
Photographer - FairyLuna Photography
Half the fun of a photoshoot is screwing around.
On Saturday of AUSA I ended up having an impromptu photoshoot with a few friends, and the fabulous Jamie (who doesn’t appear to have a Tumblr) took some shots of my Sailor Uranus that I think turned out pretty great.
From last time, I showed you how to do crossplay eyemakeup. So now I am updating with a new tut for that and fake double crease look!
Here’s my own example:
The fake crease fad became popular within the last two years I think and it really helps give the anime look. I personally find that it also adds more dimension to your eyes and eyelids so I quite like it! However, the fake crease does change from male to female characters. So for now, this is for ftm crossplay makeup! (I also show you how to do a softer blended eyeshadow so yeh)
Again, this works for me and my eyeshape but that varies from person to person. So please adjust accordingly!
Everything under the cut.
ALRIGHT KIDS WELCOME TO WIG CAP PUTTING-ON SCHOOL
"BUT MEGHAN THIS IS SO EASY WE KNOW HOW TO DO THIS"
HUSH CHILDRENS. YOU GONNA LEARN TODAY.
this is a way to put on your wig caps that stops it from rolling, bunching, slipping, all that terrible shit.
WHAT YA NEED:
two sizes of wig clips. arda even carries these on their accessories page. believe me bobby pins dont stand a chance against these beasts. you’ll need a large and a small size and i recommend having at least four clips, but if you feel you need more that’s alright. a safety pin! no. this will not pop and stab you in the head. the amount of fabric it will be holding is not enough to force open a good safety pin. A wig cap, scissors and dry styling wax! why not gel? nO. NO GEL HERE. ONLY DRY WAX. i’m using paul mitchell firm style dry wax but any good dry wax will do. dry wax is better than gel here because it not only give your hair some tackiness to keep it together (gel is too wet!) but it gives good grip to the hemline (you know what i mean) of your wig cap to avoid slippage!
ALRIGTH KIDDIES HERE WE GO.
WE ARE GONNA GET THIS
UNDER A WIG CAP.
cut off the top of your wig cap. just do it. if you are scared it will unravel of something put some fray stop on there and wait the needed drying time.
Ok, now pull it over your head.
nO YOU DINGUS PULL YOUR HAIR THROUGH IT.
ok that’s better.
now begin slicking back your hairline with the hair wax. you can use a little or a lot depending on how much your hair needs. i have a monster growing on my head so i tend to use a lot.
i didn’t use much in this tutorial though because i’m just wearing this to style a wig today. if you’re going all day at a con, however, wax it up. (note this is hell to get out of your hair with a shitty shampoo and may take two washes but it won’t hurt you ya goof.) being to pull all your hair back so you can pull the wig cap up over your face and ears slowly.
after the wig cap is just over your ears, find the trouble spots on your hair line where you like to pin your wig caps. we are pinning this first so it doesn’t slip off when we close the end of it. i like to pin in front of my ears, in the back of my neck and a few inches higher than my temples. i only used four pins today though because this is not a con.
really force the wig cap fabric through the top part of your wig pin like this or it will fail terribly.as you can see i have little bby hairs because i didn’t use much wax. if you wont want to use more wax just hair spray the tiny ones and you’re good to go.
ok, now pull the wig cap over all your hair slowly, pushign hair down and mushing it around to make it lay flat (you can also do this with damp hair but that makes my head itchy so I don’t do that often.)
then collect the ends of the wig cap, twist them together a bit and stab your safety pin through the fabric. squish hair more to make it flat aaannd
TAADAAA. : D
I took it into photoshop with an image of Odin’s Throne room to create this image of my Lady Odin cosplay